How to do pest control yourself

Seal every crack and gap. That’s the first step. Sounds basic, but it’s surprising how many places insects can sneak through. Check baseboards, window edges, dryer vents–even under the sink where pipes enter. A quick run with a silicone caulking gun can block a dozen entry points you didn’t know were there.

Boric acid still works. Not exactly a new discovery, but it’s consistently reliable–especially against ants and cockroaches. Sprinkle a thin layer behind appliances, along baseboards, or under the stove. Just don’t overdo it. Too much, and they’ll avoid it completely. A light dusting is all it takes.

Someone I know swears by mixing sugar and baking soda–equal parts. Leave the mix near trails or nests. Ants carry the sugar home, but the baking soda reacts in their system. No smell, no stains, and it’s safe around pets if placed right. Personally, I’ve tried it. Mixed results, but worth a shot if you’re patient.

Sticky traps? Not glamorous, but they work better than you’d think. Especially in basements or near heating vents. You won’t catch everything, but you’ll know what you’re dealing with. Seeing what’s stuck there after a few days tells you a lot–what species, how many, where they’re moving.

Neem oil is underrated. Spray it along windowsills, door frames, or even around garden beds. It doesn’t kill on contact, but it messes with their ability to reproduce. That alone can slow an invasion. The scent’s strong, yes, but it fades quickly indoors.

How to Eliminate Ant Trails Using Household Ingredients

Wipe the trail immediately using a 1:1 solution of white vinegar and water. Soak a cloth or paper towel and scrub the area thoroughly–baseboards, counters, floor seams–anywhere you’ve seen them march. It doesn’t just clean the surface; it breaks the chemical trail ants rely on to guide others.

After wiping, sprinkle a light dusting of cinnamon or black pepper along their usual path. It’s not poison, but it’s enough to confuse and repel them. Some people swear by baby powder, but in my experience, it’s messier and less reliable.

Seal the Entry Points

If you’ve tracked the line back to a crack or gap, pack it with a mix of baking soda and dish soap. It creates a physical and chemical barrier. Not permanent, but surprisingly good at buying time. You could use caulk, sure, but that’s more of a weekend job.

Boiling water with a splash of lemon juice works too, especially if they’re coming in through tiny spots near the base of your walls. Just pour slowly, carefully. No fancy tools needed–just a kettle and a bit of patience.

Repeat Daily for a Few Days

Don’t expect one treatment to be enough. Ants are stubborn, and their scouts are persistent. Check back in the same spots the next day. If the trail reappears, wipe it again and reapply the powder. It might take a few rounds before they give up and redirect elsewhere–ideally, outside your home.

Setting Up Homemade Fruit Fly Traps with Items from Your Kitchen

Use a small glass jar or bowl. Pour in a bit of apple cider vinegar–just enough to coat the bottom. Add a drop or two of dish soap. Don’t skip that part; the soap breaks the surface tension so flies sink instead of floating. Cover the jar with plastic wrap and poke a few holes with a toothpick. Not too big. Just enough for them to crawl in and not find their way out.

If vinegar’s not your thing, mashed fruit works too. Overripe banana, for example. Put a chunk in the jar, same setup with plastic wrap and holes. It can start working within a couple of hours, depending on how bad the situation is.

Another option: red wine and dish soap. Same proportions. Sometimes they go for that even more than vinegar. It depends on the flies, honestly. Try both if you’re unsure. I’ve had better luck with vinegar in early summer, but late season? Wine wins.

Placement Matters

Keep traps close to where the flies gather–near the fruit bowl, compost bin, or sink. One isn’t always enough. Spread a few around if the problem’s more than just a couple stragglers. Empty and refresh daily. Once the vinegar starts to smell off, it’s less attractive to the flies.

If they keep coming back despite the traps, it might be worth looking at the source more closely. I once found an old piece of fruit wedged behind a toaster. Clean that up and, honestly, the traps became unnecessary within a day or two.

For more tips on spotting hidden sources and dealing with recurring swarms, check out this post on penzu.com about The Pest Control Guy.

Natural Solutions for Repelling Mice Without Poison

Seal entry points with steel wool and caulk. If mice can’t get in, they can’t become a problem. Focus on gaps around pipes, vents, and foundation cracks. Steel wool works better than foam or fabric because mice won’t chew through it. Caulk holds it in place. No traps, no poison–just a physical barrier.

Use peppermint oil–but apply it consistently. A few drops on cotton balls placed near suspected entry points can discourage mice. The scent irritates their noses. But it fades fast. Refresh every 3–4 days or it stops working. I tried skipping a week once–bad idea. They came back.

Clutter attracts them. Clean areas do not. Store food in glass or metal containers, not plastic. Keep garages and basements clear of nesting materials–cardboard, insulation, even dryer lint. If there’s less to hide in, mice are less likely to stick around. It’s not glamorous, but it works.

Try ultrasonic repellents, but don’t expect miracles. Some people swear by them, others see no change. I’ve had mixed results. They might help, especially in smaller rooms, but they’re not a standalone fix. Think of them as backup, not your main strategy.

Cat litter (used) in a sealed container with holes can help. Sounds weird, but it mimics a predator’s presence. Just don’t leave it open–it smells. A vented jar placed near mouse traffic sometimes does the trick. No guarantees, but I’ve seen fewer droppings when I’ve used this around the furnace room.

Using Diatomaceous Earth to Target Cockroaches Indoors

Apply food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) in a thin, barely visible layer along baseboards, under kitchen appliances, and behind cabinets–anywhere cockroaches tend to hide or travel. Focus on dry, undisturbed areas. Bathrooms and laundry rooms can be trickier due to moisture, so it might not be the best fit there.

Don’t pile it up. A heavy layer doesn’t work better–in fact, roaches might just walk around it. You want them to crawl through it, get the powder on their legs and body, and carry it back to where others are hiding. That’s the goal.

• Use a hand duster or a fine sieve to spread it evenly. A makeup brush works in tight spots.
• Vacuum and clean surfaces first, especially greasy spots where dust won’t stick properly.
• Reapply after vacuuming or if humidity builds up. It loses its abrasive quality when wet.

It’s not instant. You might not notice a drop in numbers for several days. But when used consistently, DE tends to shrink the population gradually. I’ve seen it work best when combined with better food storage and sealing entry points–especially under sinks or around heating pipes. It’s not a silver bullet, but it holds its own without introducing anything toxic indoors.

Preventing Mosquito Breeding by Managing Standing Water

Empty any containers outside that collect rainwater–buckets, old flower pots, lids, tarps, even bottle caps. It doesn’t take much. Mosquitoes can lay eggs in less than a teaspoon of stagnant water. That surprised me the first time I heard it.

Gutters clog with leaves fast, especially in early fall. Check them every couple of weeks. Water trapped in a clogged eavestrough becomes a perfect mosquito nursery. Same goes for birdbaths–change the water at least twice a week. More often if it’s hot out. I’ve seen mosquito larvae wriggling in one that hadn’t been cleaned in just four days.

For anything that holds water and can’t be emptied–like garden ponds–add a small fountain or bubbler. Movement keeps mosquitoes from settling. Fish help too. Something like goldfish or minnows will feed on the larvae. It’s surprisingly low-maintenance.

Common Mosquito Breeding Spots to Monitor

Small Details Make a Big Difference

Check for hidden spots. The corner of a wheelbarrow, an upturned shovel, even the edge of a patio umbrella can trap enough moisture. It adds up. And once you’ve seen a mosquito cloud form near your door, it’s hard to ignore again.

Blocking Entry Points to Keep Spiders Out of Your Home

Seal cracks and gaps around windows, doors, and foundations with silicone or acrylic latex caulk. Even a tiny crevice can be an open invitation for spiders looking for shelter. Inspect door sweeps and weather stripping–replace or repair them if worn out. I’ve found that a quick check here can make a surprising difference over time.

Don’t forget vents and utility openings. Cover them with fine mesh screens; this stops spiders without compromising airflow. Sometimes, it’s the overlooked crawl spaces or gaps behind siding that let spiders sneak in, so a thorough walk-around is worth the effort.

Wood piles or debris near the house provide hiding spots right next to your walls. Moving them at least a metre away reduces chances spiders establish themselves close by. It’s a small step but, honestly, it seems to cut down on sightings inside.

Consider weather stripping on garage doors and basement windows, too. Those places often escape notice but can be weak spots. I’ve patched up a few gaps that were practically invisible but effective entryways.

Occasionally, spiders enter through open doors or windows, so keeping screens in good condition helps, though it won’t block all attempts. Still, combining this with sealing gaps creates a layered defence that’s harder for spiders to bypass.